Independent-minded, and often libertarian, off-grid types often gravitate towards geodesic domes. The domes do have a lot going for them, but they aren’t what I had in mind. At least, not for a primary dwelling. However, for a storage shed or similar structure, there is some appeal…most notably space. I was curious and started dinking around the internet and found this. As a storage building, this would have a lot going for it. Most notably, the requisite building materials…2×4’s, a saw, and a cordless screwdriver…are easily transportable and easy to work with. The size of the dome is just a matter of deciding how long you want to make your 2×4 segments.
I like the idea of something that is relatively simple to put together and doesn’t require anything that doesn’t fit in the back of a pickup truck. I also like the idea that since the construction requires a known number of pieces of particular lenght, I can easily calculate a finished cost and calculate a revised cost if I want to change the dimensions slightly.
Disadvantages? Well, they sure look weird. But Im less about aesthetics, in this case, and more about utility and ease of construction.Then theres also the matter of how to skin it. I’d be curious if covering it in layers of hardware cloth or chicken wire would allow a person to skin it with cement. There would be weight considerations, but Id think you wouldnt need a terribly thick layer to create a waterproof and durable covering.
I might need to investigate this a bit further. One of the first things I need to do at the Beta Site is get some sort of covered structure up there to enable me to stage things, have a place to roll out a sleeping bag, and act as a small workspace. As I’ve said before, the road infrastructure up there isn’t, in my opinion, up to snuff for hauling in a prefabricated storage shed. I suppose a knocked-down storage shed might work but any one wall is going to be larger than the space available in the back of a pickup truck.
Interesting stuff to explore and think about.
On a side note, I’m curious to see how many posts I need to make tagged ‘Beta Site’ before it appears as a ‘frequently used tag’ in the sidebar.
An easy “instant shed” is a school bus, if you can get one to the location. Safety glass all around and, unlike a camper, any tree that falls on it would only slightly dent it.
Shotcrete?
https://youtu.be/jsauwY_NU1w?feature=shared
Substitute your framing method for the balloon that they use in the video above. Looks to me like they’re just pumping the concrete spray out of the wheelbarrow, so it looks like man-portable tools in this case.
Fireproof. Waterproof with the right additives. Probably need at least two friends to help. Or maybe one if you can rent a MudMixer.
Zero – Check out Zip Tie Domes (see address below, plus several YouTube videos):
I love this design!
Buckonbeach
https://www.ziptiedomes.com/
Have you noticed humans somehow are the only animal that lives in square/rectangular structures?Round is simply superior BUT man has a “concept/image” problem of what looks bigger and better.I’d build a dome in a heartbeat if I can buy the land behind mine-45ft/2 floor.
Get an Alaskan Mill from Granberg. Harvest your own trees and build your own building. Post and beam, timber frame, whatever. Skin it with tin or aluminum sheets. Way cheaper and faster. If you’re concerned about fire danger, develop a fire response plan. I recommend a small pound at the low point and a dedicated pump. A couple of Indian tanks and a some preventative measures will fix you up. A concrete building has some advantages… But it’s a whole lot of work for minimal payoff. And that only protects that one building. Protect your whole compound with a plan. If you must have a completely fireproof room or building, start with a shipping container. It’s easier to work with and it starts out as a useable structure. Two containers 20′ apart are barn walls that will support roofing trusses. Just close in the ends of the middle bay and it’s a compound. Roof it and it’s a large metal shop. Metal doesn’t burn.
+1 for the shipping containers.
One is a workshop and secure storage (as secure as you are going to get) for a remote site.
The second container has living quarters and maybe more storage.
Then an overhead cover built between them that becomes a barn. You can get a metal building manufacturer to engineer and design this for you, if you buy the prepared materials from them. I’ve also seen it done with wood. Your choice.
Now you have base of operations to build a real structure, or turn this into a barndominium of some kind.
An unappreciated feature of containers is that a dozer can drag them into locations that are at least vehicle accessible, especially the 20′ ones, even if you can’t get a truck in.
Check out Lloyd Khan and his take on why domes are not the way to go. Well worth your time. He built many and wrote 2 books on them before turning his back on them. 90 years old and still actively working.
Instead of concrete for your shelter, look at lime stucco.
When it cracks, it’ll repair itself unlike concrete when it cracks.
You have Menards in the AO? They have programs free to use that can generate drawings and part lists for any kind of shed you might envision. You can get in with a 4×4 and a trailer you are in business. Or close and use an ATV and sled to get it in to your site. Pioneers did more with less. Only trade off is time.
yurts are a whole lot more durable than you’d suspect – I see them being used up in Alaska for many seasons and surviving nicely thru the winter ….
I’d be looking for something portable to move elsewhere in the future and possibly sell it off if not needed – they are 100% small component parts and DIY assembled without any heavy equipment ……
I have also used Yurts. They work well an fit the semi permanent category.
However they arent as durable as a good ole 8×16 shed. Also the 8×16 shed you build on site is a step in your evolution there. Starts as a dry cabin then it becomes a storage shed.
Personal if I had a vehicle that would tow one I’d be getting a small travel trailer first.
Then build a shed. Then a cabin.
Intershelter.com
Yeah, I’ve posted about them before. I completely overlooked that one.
Those are pretty impressive, the 20 footer in particular. Nice selection of colors too, several which would blend right in with a forested area.
Out in the Nevada Test Site there were aluminum domes still there from the tests. Some of them remained intact after an “up close and personal” nuke test. Not that the beta site would ever need to cope with that, but domes have a unique structural strength. Spoiler: the aluminum domes that survived intact were a half inch thick.
Domes appeal to me also. My approach would be to fab my panels at home and assemble at the beta site. I’d have a better work environment at home. Level ground, no need to haul generator and saws. I can build jigs to make consistent cuts. Etc.
A power miter saw and an afternoon should yield a few panels. I think a dome on a knee wall would be ideal. As for roofing, I’ve read about folks using elastomeric coatings. That needs more research.
BTDT. Domes appear to have appeal and utility… until you try to actually build and use one. “Round” is not all it is cracked up to be in practical use. In my early years, three of us budding know-nothings built a geodesic in the woods of Arkansas out of sheet metal that used the standing seams as the structure. It was cool and had some interesting sound qualities, BUT actually using it turned out to be problematic. And it leaked like a sieve; ended up slathering roof tar all over it.
Think about doors and windows and other mechanical systems that will need to go in; few are readily adaptable to spheres. Stick to what is more conventional and you will have fewer headaches trying to force a round peg into a square hole.
I was wondering the same, how would all the shelving work? Most of it is designed to go against a flat wall.
Advantages and disadvantages for most everything, domes are efficient and strong but would have to calculate material costs per square foot. Been watching YT videos of folks exploring old mine sites, some of the simple frame and corrugated tin structures are still standing after many decades. With the price of wood and fire resistance to consider, I wonder what the cost of using steel 2×4’s would be? Would also have to consider ease of de-construction should it become necessary. Good luck, we are vicariously living the adventure!
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I still say get 2 shipping containers, like Fred said. My neighbor did exactly the same thing a few years ago, works great. We had a 50+mph blow a few days ago w/o anything budging. I also think you’ll regret the dome if there’s a roofing issue. You can get to it from the inside, but getting on the roof of a dome to address a leak or something can be tricky if not disastrous.
Not a fan. Originally designed by Buckminster Fuller for outer space stations like the ISS. It creates the most space for the least amount of building materials. If I remember correctly place on a 4 ft wall a 32 ft dome will give over 3 or 4 thousand square feet. One problem is the center will be about 20 ft up so you need a scaffold to bolt it together (build the units and bolt loosely together, tighten when all are in place so don’t use screws or you loose the ability to adjust to fit properly). There is a lot of waste from cutting pieces to fit. Properly built there is no problem with leaking. Spray epoxy seals it well. Another positive is less wall exposed to the outside means easier/less heating or cooling. Negatives are if someone finds it they will tell their friends and op/sec is out the window. Novelty will attract attention. For solo work I think a cordwood build would work out well there for living spaces. For equipment/storage I would just stay simple pole shed build with dirt floor. Could be built solo but couple weekends with a friend or two will make it happen faster. The less people know you are there the better.
One big plus about domes is the circular shape. A standard home with straight horizontal – vertical lines catches the eye. Domes are circular and blend in with trees – hills so are much less eye catching (especially when viewed by a drone with constant movement). Shadows cast are very similar to trees and nearby placed plants make this even more so.
I’m a big Container Fan, had one on my property for 16 years. Actually had someone try to break-in with hacksaw. I would be worried about security.
You can get one delivered by someone with the correct $$$$.
Just don’t rent, believe me.
Domes sound very strange inside. A Frames too. And actually using the additional footage when everything you have is flat and square is an issue.
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Depending on how handy you are:
I’d get a smallish trailer, designed or modified for off-road use. Something about the size of a milsurp jeep trailer (M100 or M416), with the lunette. You can get a pintle hook for your truck, and the combination (and a long drawbar) provides a LOT of off-road flexibility.
Since milsurp can be expensive, a half-decent axle, and a bit of welding of steel channel or box, builds a platform: Some 2×6 deck, a trailer wiring kit, and tires and you’re good to go.
You can haul studs, sheets of plywood, etc.
I’d also consider a trip to Harbor Freight, for one of their dual fuel (gas/propane) generators – the 5k version will run for 8 or 9 hours at half load on a 20# tank of propane, which is likely sufficient for a weekends work, with no gasoline spills. Also, you can get RV tanks (40#) or even bigger (100#) for longer term use. Propane doesn’t go bad, and doesn’t smell as badly as gasoline in storage.
Since you’re out of cell range (I think?) I’d get a T-mobile satellite messaging phone plan. In case of accident. Also keep an IFAK to hand, a good first aid kit, a shovel, a Pulaski, and a water fire extinguisher (an Indian Pump, or a couple of 2 1/2 gal PWs) handy.
Might check out “Bus Grease Monkey” for videos of container building use, and how useful small, old! construction equipment can be for remote building ideas. They have recently used a couple of containers to make the lower walls for a vehicle parking/work area. You could do similar with 20 footers as a base, and since you don’t need the height of buses, you could use more containers for a second floor level for expansion. Bear in mind that containers normally only have height compression resistance at, or near, the corners. You don’t want to add too much weight on top for this reason, unless you reinforce them.
Even an old, low HP garden tractor would be a very useful item to acquire. My dad had a handful of them, one even had a front end loader attachment. Think they were about 12 hp, single cylinder, but really neat. We took the wheels off one, and found we could load it into a Ford Ranger 4×4 using a big front end loader with straps. Real tight fit, but gives you an idea of size for reference.
He also had a sit-on mower that he had mounted trailer hitches front and rear. He used it to move vehicles around his acreage. Even that little mower had enough grunt to move around his big motorhomes on the gravel driveways. It still cut grass, it’s secondary job.
Seen some interesting footage on Conestoga Huts recently; very simple to build.
I have a 24 by 34 steel building I beam frame that I would give you a good deal on… Just let me know Brother…
A few months ago it was announced that the formula for Roman concrete had been rediscovered. The difference was one additional element to the batch, along with the mixture needing to be heated before pouring. The resulting concrete is self-repairing! If it gets stressed and cracks, the new element causes it to re-bind.
The reason i bring this up is this may add a new use for small batches for those who cannot get a concrete mixer truck to a backwoods location. I suspect this was how the Romans built some of their concrete works. It seems logical that this new mix can be used to build larger objects by combining a new batch with a previously poured batch.
So, if you wanted a concrete pad to build a home or shop or an irrigation system for moving water, this may now be feasible using a portable mixer. Ending up with a full size, ONE PIECE pad seems like it would be a good thing. I’m assuming that pouring a fresh, heated, mix into a form next to the previous chunk of clean concrete will result in a fused assembly. Just keep mixing and pouring while moving forms around as needed to contain the new pour while it is setting up. Probably need to run a few trials to work out the learning curve, but this would seem to be a game changer if it actually works as I suspect. You could probably do some experiments at home in your yard to get a feel for the system.
It may require warmer weather to work properly. I don’t know enough about it to make a guess about the details at this point. I don’t know if anyone has done any work with this yet.