Summer is slowly dying. But dying is a long way from being dead. There’s still probably another month, maybe two, before I need to start thinking the Beta Site is ‘closed for the season’. I suspect right around the middle of October it should start dropping concerning amounts of snow. That means that the ‘construction season’ will also be winding down.
How has 2026 gone for the Beta Site? Well, I didn’t get as much done as I want, but I got a bunch of things done, including some of the more expensive things.
- Got the game cameras deployed
- Had a professional and legally valid survey done
- Got the conex put in
- Established StarLink for connectivity
- Found an alternate route into the property to facilitate better access in bad weather
- Met a couple neighbors
- Got the storage tanks buried
- Got the secondary entry into the property cleaned up a bit
Expensive? Some of it…between the conex, survey, mini excavator and trailer rentals, and a few other things I’d say I dropped about $20k altogether. And that, my friends, is going to be the cheap part. Plans for 2027 are grand. Tentatively the biggest expenses will be:
- A well
- A septic system
These two things will give me the major accoutrements of civilization. I don’t mind living on 12v power, and keeping an eye open for bears…thats the price for living in the middle of nowhere and I accept it. What I will not tolerate (if I don’t have to) is a lack of flush toilets. Now look, I know that in the apocalypse the ability to drop your pants and sit on a nice porcelain throne is, at best, sketchy. And I’ve gone the caveman route when I’ve been out hunting or otherwise far from civilization. And, yeah, its no that big a deal. BUT…if I can have a nice, honest to Crom flush toilet why wouldn’t I? So those two items will be the most expensive things in 2027, I suspect.
And, of course, theres still the matter of the ‘real’ structure. I’m not living in a cargo container. I want a small-but-cozy four-season cabin/structure that has running water, heat, light, a flush toilet, internet, and all the creature comforts. Sure, I can ride out the apocalypse in a tent but if I don’t have to……. Really, something similar to this would be supermegawesome.
Other upcoming big expenses will be locking gates, water infrastructure (mostly piping water to various points on the property), fencing, gabions, sangars, decking, solar/power infrastructure, communications infrastructure, etc.
See the keyword there? Infrastructure. Its not going to be quick, and its not going to be cheap, but it does need to be done. By this time next year I want at least half of these things done. Since winter will be a time of inactivity, that will translate into a time of reduced spending..that’ll give me time to put together a war chest for jump starting things when ‘building season’ resumes, which I am scheduling as June 1 but will in all likelihood be about a month earlier.
An interesting and rewarding winter project might be finding a small trenching machine on one of the used equipment sites, fixing it up (tune up, etc), and using it for your infrastructure projects next year.
Then sell it for your investment.
Honestly, a backhoe would be terrific. I can find some used ones in the $30k range. I just need to balance the $ of rental vs owning and all that stuff.
Depending on how much digging you’d be doing a smaller towed backhoe can also work. Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, and other similar stores sell them.
I stumbled across a home built one quite similar to Harbor Freight’s for a couple hundred dollars. I’ve used it for digging footings and the like. With our rocky soil it’s turned out to be a god send.
Even though they’re towed machines they can move around the work area on they’re own. For longer moves I put the bucket one a trailer and use the arms to lift the spikes off the ground.
Behind the tractor/brush hog (Ford 8N) I’d say that it’s been one of my better investments.
What about the one your friend had out back? Spent a little on tune up/service and hyd. hoses
A possible option for your project land would be to look for a small tractor. My dad had several, that I think would be called a “garden tractor”. One had a front end loader option on it. Another had a flat plow blade. He used that for snow plowing and spreading gravel, dirt, and sea shells for a couple acre homestead. The Loader was maybe 1/4 the size of his big Ford unit. IIRC, they had a single cylinder engine of about 12hp. Rear wheel drive, 3 speed trans with a transfer box for low speed heavy work. Pretty sure it had a PTO, which was probably working that loader option. No idea of cost of the category of equipment. This was 20 years ago, and they were probably antiques at that time. Really needed a new carburetor, and I was anticipating using a motorcycle carb for them. Wish I could remember the name. Anyway, there were multiple brands of similar tractors, and the small size is partly what makes them very useful. You could make your driveway more amenable for your truck, and increase the time you can make it accessible. They were quite capable of towing a vehicle around the property when needed. For a better idea of size, we pulled all 4 wheels off the bare tractor and lifted it into the bed of a 4×4 Ranger Supercab.(tight fit!) He was going to take it to one of my sister’s place in the desert, but I pointed out he wouldn’t be able to get it out without a hoist of some sort. I was going to load all of them on a boat trailer and bring them west myself, but his health got bad, the property got sold, and I suspect the buyer scrapped them. Sigh…
So… i think tiny homes are cool and if you do it yourself not that expensive.. however I am going to say you should stay away from it with a passion. several reason.
First limited size.. I know.. that’s what makes it inexpensive.. that is my least reasonable caveat though.
Next up, fire proof.. your building in the woods. I’m pretty sure you don’t want to clear cut your woods to create a fire safe zone around your tiny home to keep it from burning down when you have a forest fire there. It’s not a question of if but when. a year, a decade two decades? fires happen.. none of this global warming crap just the raw basic truth that fires are part of the natural ecosystem of forests and prairies. Lightening was designed to start fires, no need of the multiplicative effect of homo sapiens on the incidence of fires. I would recommend a couple different building methods…
first is straw bale construction with very heavy plaster layer and a fireproof roof, weather concrete, tile, steel (though i don’t really consider normal steel roofs fireproof. a good earth roof though is.
next is a monolithic dome.. look it up if your not familiar.. you can even buy a trailerable small version from them last i looked a few years ago. Buy it as a shell and finish it yourself to do it cheaper. or go the full do it yoursefl route… You could make a few small one’s over time to gradually grow your footprint.
old school but absolutely fire proof as long as you make sure the roof is. cob construction. There are buildings in damp old England over 600 years old built like this.. i have seen videos of small bulldozers bouncing off them trying to destroy them.
Another great option for your area is old school adobe. again a do it yourself. I would also seriously if it was me look at a basement/dugout/storm cellar/ root cellar.
If you can’t afford it up front maybe do a very small area with ladder down and have it extend just past foundation so that later you can dig out a bigger one beside house that can be connected and then maybe another building built on later.. all kinds of options.
I really don’t figure the connex box as fire proof. its steel if fire gets to it, it can get hot enough to start stuff inside on fire or melt them.. steel doesn’t do well in hot fires. it can sag and even melt in some situations. Concrete and earth or earth coverings seem to be more suitable.
Given your in a forest I figure you would use logs and trees for roof beams and have them extend at minimum a couple feet past walls.. I would do wrap around porches and such that you can enclose later. This exposes those beams to fire if it happens. They make a really good paint called intumescent paint, bunch of companies make it. It foams when exposed to high heat and or flame and insulates the surface below it. I have seen demos of it painted on cardboard that they then used a torch on the paint side of the cardboard. it took 20 minutes to burn through to the other side. I would paint what little exposed wood you have with it.. i have even seen it in a clear formulation so you can even maintain a bit of wood esthetic.
and off i go.. hit and run posting.
Monolithic Dome company https://www.monolithic.com/
Just a few miles from my location. Definitely worth considering, especially since it can be built completely underground (once the dirt is put back).
Congratulations on the great season already behind you. Good luck with the coming year’s plans. We are suburban on a well and septic, now surrounded by shared regional systems. Two things I am glad we have done in our now 30+ years here are running the well down two hundred extra feet (we are in the desert), and doubling the septic system size compared to what is ‘required’ for the property and building size. Holes do not get cheaper to drill, dig, or replace. It is all about removing future stress and worrying. Again congratulations and watch your six – them bears and cats are watching you.
Storing enough material for a teotwawki outhouse is never a bad idea. Has earth shelter housing crossed your mind? Maybe CMU’s with steel roofing? The CMU’s poured solid with grout would offer apocalyptic ballistic and fire protection. Half inch AR shutters, with the appropriate windage and elevation slits would be a nice touch.
Dude, you are an inspiration. Keep it up.
I grew up in a house with a shallow well that got very low in summer. We always used grey water to flush the toilet. Maybe you won’t have that problem.
You can buy a do-it-yourself well drilling rig. I have a DeepRock Hydra-Drill. It worked great, but unfortunately, I learned too late that there is no underground water in my part of Texas, except the aquifer about 3000 feet down.
How about an underground Hobbit Home? You could build one into the side of a hill, facing south for sunlight.
If I may, when building your more permanent living structure, put some thought into it being habitable for a person with diminishing physical abilities. Things like that happen at some very odd times in your life as well as the timeframe they are normally expected. Plan well and you should be able to enjoy your dream for a long time. Still living vicariously thru your joy. Thanks for the posts that allow that.
I learned a new word today, sangar. Which led me to this site, https://www.thinkdefence.co.uk/?s=sangar
The best thing is probably building the minimum size you could live with that “can” be expanded in the future. And the old folk handicap thing is a great idea.
Yes it is. I put a ramp on our front porch because older and disabled relatives. I even put one on the back deck, it makes restocking the firewood a lot easier. Our back porch has room to store a half cord plus seasonally and gets topped off prior to any snow forecast
CZ: I enjoy the updates. What about a lagoon for your septic system? Yes, a lagoon system can be used in Montana, especially in areas where conventional septic systems are not suitable due to soil conditions. Lagoon systems provide effective wastewater treatment using natural biological processes and are often a cost-effective alternative in challenging sites. According to the web. We have a lagoon system at the farm, it is down hill from the house. You put a fence around it, it has little or no smell. Our electricity was down about 14 days with a ice storm, a decade or so back, I just flushed the toilets with gray water, no issues, it all flows down hill. Nothing to pump out, no maintenance, unless trees roots grow into your line. Check it out.
We have a septic lagoon downstream from our septic tank. There was enough depth and proper soil conditions for a proper leech field. We’ve been very happy with the way it worked out. Ditto on there being no smell.
Remember the fake concrete log housing at the old airport?
Yup. https://www.commanderzero.com/?p=6253
Always thought it was a great idea.
It’s just about the best idea there is…
Got a lot of good memories from that ol’ airport. Too bad they had to make it all corporate and gay like every other airport in America.
When I first got here in ’86 that place was three gates and a luggage carousel. Im rather disheartened by how huge it has gotten.
Does that mean you’re out on the switching tower or blockhouse/fire tower structure? I’ve always found those intriguing for a cabin where you have a view (side of a hill or mountain, overlooking a plain, etc)
https://www.commanderzero.com/?p=11628
Haven’t ruled them out. Just have to work out the logistics, finances, and viability of construction.
In the linked post you said:
>The kitchen sink doubles as a bathroom sink
A bath sink can be tiny, or even built into the toilet tank top. A person alone on a mountain top can’t afford gastrointestinal issues.
Thanks for sharing your adventures and ideas with everyone! As to your mention of “locking gates” – I am sure folks far wiser than I am in these matters will chime in, but I’ve always thought that locking gates indicate (to a thief) that there’s something behind those gates worth protecting – and while any locking gate (or a door lock or a safe) only delays entry and isn’t “100% crook proof”, maybe an unassuming gate with no trespassing signs (monitored by hidden cameras) visible from the road, with stronger, more substantial defense mechanisms a bit further into the property would protect what ya wanna protect without advertising that something inside needs protecting? Mechanisms like hidden underground man traps, native native plant species are notorious for creating these impassable, interwoven barriers (False Huckleberry, Douglas’s Hawthorn, Snowbrush Ceanothus), and anchored “faux” rocks from these guys – https://dekorraproducts.com/.
Alternatively, a locked gate, as opposed to an unlocked one, conveys the message that the person is definitely not supposed to be there and there may be more severe consequences if they enter. Obviously locks don’t stop determined people, but an unlocked door deters far less people than a locked one.
IDK, not a lawyer but, I would think that defeating/breeching a locked access point would certainly prove, intent to. With the cameras you have, could help with a conviction and possibly certain restitution.
I totally agree. We have signs posted and a sturdy “Bull Gate” with a ‘motorcycle chain’ and large lock between steel posts. It’s mostly locked whether we are home or not. With cattle so expensive now, pretty much everyone has a locked gate now.
Of course – like I said, “folks far wiser than I am in these matters . . . “
Just saw Coleman’s Surplus has gabions and they are currently on sale 20% off. Shipping would not be cheap but is not going to get cheaper
I was thinking about something. Ever thought of putting up a garden type shed with locking doors. Temp lockable living quarters and when you get your cabin built you can turn it into a wood drying shed?
As to gate comments. They are nothing uncommon in country side no matter what state you live in. Out in that part of country wher there is a lot of livestock fences and gstes are ubiquitous.
Looking good from a logistics and infrastructure perspective. Bite size pieces will make it palatable.
LMK what you need for expertise.
Shortside
Dude, what I need is for you to tell me when youre in Missoula again so I can take you to lucnh and pick your brain.
Your Well will be a huge expense, but well worth the money (ha ha). As for the septic, plan for a larger structure footprint (bathroom, laundry, kitchen) then you need so you have capacity in your basin and a correctly sized leech field. It’s the cart before the horse problem. You have to have a very good idea of the house plan and use before you size the septic and leech field.
Next – what are the permits like and what is the turnaround time for your county? Do you have to have an approved ‘House’ plan to show the correct septic sizing before you can move forward? Are you allowed to ‘do it yourself’ or do you have to contract it out? Is it required to be inspected and approved for your ‘Final Occupancy Permit’. What is your frost depth? Given it’s in Montana that could be an issue requiring excessive depth of excavation (yes, I have seen septic tanks freeze).
Structure – Domes, very cute but a huge waste of space and material. Look at ICF (LiteformICF), Easy to do a foundation by yourself and cover the ‘frost wall’ issue. These allow for wall thickness options and steel reinforcement, (this requires a good road for concrete trucks to access). A nice basement is a great storage option and location for the mechanical pleasantries of modern life. As others have mentioned, a nice wrap around porch is nice, especially for morning coffee or evening sunset. Do you have to have a set roof pitch for shedding snow? The roof pitch is a great location for solar panels. The extended porch keeps the snow load off the exterior walls, and yes snow will absolutely wreck a wall if you are not able to keep the outside pressure off of it, ask me how I know, (back to the extended porch).
We have done the mountain property thing three times here in Colorado and being an engineer has saved us an absolute ton of money while designing and building out these locations. At each we thought this was the ‘forever’ property and each time we got offers that were too good to be true. Each time having the permits and proper design made the inspection, insurance and sale a smooth process.