Video – Jerry Cans: The True Secret Weapon of WWII

I fully recognize that there have been , since WW2, advancements in design, materials, and manufacturing process. It is not unreasonable to believe that there would be a better designed, better made alternative to the NATO-style (or Euro-style) fuel cans. Certainly there are devotees of the Scepter cans, and I’m sure they have their strengths, but I’ve been using the metal NATO-style cans for 20+ years and I have a difficult time thinking that a plastic can, even a super heavy-duty one, like the Scepter is going to be as leak-proof and as durable.

These last few posts have been about fuel because, well, I’ve got it on the brain since I watched it jump almost twenty cents in a day. And watched what it did to my monthly fuel budget. (Man, I could sure go for some $2 gas and some mean tweets right now.)

Anyway, although I’ve posted about history of these types of cans before, I thought this video might be interesting for those of you out there who weren’t aware of the interesting history of these gems.

20 thoughts on “Video – Jerry Cans: The True Secret Weapon of WWII

  1. I am a fan of the Scepter cans after seeing them thrown off a 2 1/2 ton truck on to pavement and rocks without breaking as well as being run over by said truck without breaking. They also have the advantage of not rusting. I have seen scepter cans broken after being thrown or run over in sub freezing (it was in the low teens Farenheight) Scepter cans can start to degrade if left in the sun long enough but i have seen cans take a decade of Arizona sun with no noticeable degradation.. I don’t know how well the metal Nato design compares but I love those Scepter cans.

    • Have several “real nato” surplus cans,the build quality is obviously superior(made in ’50s) and only had water stored(only way they could be imported). Pouring capacity is great with proper nozzle is 5gal in about 65-70 seconds. Price was extremely competitive($20-$25@) and was still available at last check. Sceptre cans are great for water but plastic is permiable and will outgas the volitile fractions that allow fuel to vaporize/burn,also melt in hot situations and allow leaks.

  2. in order to avoid polluting the air by fuel spilling USA CARB regulations force us to buy those lousy cans with the auto shutoff spill everywhere spouts . you have to buy specter cans smuggled in Military only like standard capacity magazines

    • There are places that sell the fuel cans but specifically say they are to be used for storing water only. A nice circumvention.

  3. I would take steel versus plastic for fuel cans. How many plastic auto parts or consumer products have broken in your lifetime to give you enough worldly experiences to not have confidence in them particularly with flammable fuel storage. In the heat the plastic containers swell out like a football, unacceptable stress for sealing integrity. The metal cans will only slightly swell and the lever lock cap system is milspec durable foolproof. The rubber gaskets seal very well and are a serviceable replacement part. (order spares sets, because your smart like that) I once had four 20litre cans slip loose from tie down straps in the bed of a pick up sliding around, no leaks, no damages, tuff product. This is a high value, top tier importance critical commodity in your prep plans, invest accordingly. Stay frostiest.

  4. The US design ‘Blitz’ cans are in all ways inferior…the NATO (actually, German) welded cans are better. The plastic Sceptre cans are OK, but only the GI versions – they are made of plastic 2-3x or more thicker than the civilian versions of those cans.

    But, while I keep some fuel in cans (mainly to be ready to load onto vehicles) the better way to store fuel, I think, is in large tanks. I have a 500 gallon gasoline storage tank, and a 5000 gallon former US Air Force refueler that is filled with diesel. The big tanks allow me to treat (Pri-products) and polish (run through filters and water separators) the fuel easily and quickly. Any water that gets into the fuel is dealt with.

    Of course, my part of Montana is rural and such tanks are more or less common. I would not recommend such storage in urban areas. Aside from likely violating fire codes, should a fire occur with tanks like that in your home you might not have any insurance coverage.

    I keep kerosene in the 5 gallon cans I buy it in, for lanterns, stoves and heaters.

    And I’ve installed several propane tanks, to run the generator.

  5. Before all this crap started, I bought 6 Safe T Cans @ around $33.00 ea. to store gasoline for the generator should it be needed.
    Now pushing $50.00 ea. on Amazon.
    Same with water storage; set for storing 80 gal. is 25% more now than in September.
    Get it while you can, folks!

  6. I looked at the Deutsche Optik set of four and they appear to be not the same as what wavianusa.com sells. 0.8mm instead of 0.9mm thick, made in Poland instead of Latvia, etc.
    The pictures of the set CZ sprayed with flex seal in the post last year look like what’s sold on wavianusa.com.
    I think I can find the Wavian’s other places for $20 more, but if anyone can say if deutscheoptik.com ships the real mccoy jerry cans, please let me know.

    • Duetscheoptik is the models I have referenced and used for a decade plus. I rotated out diesel and gasoline in four cans each flavor annually or so without issues. Stored them in 110+ desert heat garage as well without problems. In a minus -10 garage this season now. I thnk chevy/ ford comparisons in euro designs, as long as not chicom knockoffs. Still way better than plastic and what most gaping open mouthed Wojacks out there are geared up with. Get spare gasket sets and doubles of spouts and good to go. Stay frostier.

      • addendum. I found the battery operated fuel siphon pump (stick shaft type inlet with filler hose) from harbor freight tools $11.00, very helpful. Mainly used with the kerosene from 2.5 litter Jerry cans or the 5 gal. Round store bought cans. I fill my Korean dynaglo heater with the pump for no spills limp wrist simplicity. I will get a couple more for back ups. Getting older so anything easier helps these days. Stay frosty.

  7. Picked up 2 US military cans 1968 and a 1945 can (appears to one of early ones made in the
    UK) from a friend, still serviceable just needed a little cleaning

    • Thanks for that. Just bought two from Lehman’s.
      Use promo code: Prepare322 for 20% off your order, or promo code: shipfree99
      for free shipping on orders over $100.

  8. These plastic cans are made from Polypropylene. A commodity grade material. This material is a crystalline material and differs from say ABS which is an amorphous material. The crystalline has an actual melt point like say ice. The amorphous material is like butter. It softens to the point where it will flow under pressure. These crystalline materials have good chemical resistance. A wall thickness of one half inch will be the equivalent of metal at say 3/16 wall thickness. The plastic will last in hostile environments of wet or chemical exposure where metal even though painted will eventually fail. The choice I guess comes down to price. Availability and your own comfort zone of experience and familiarity.
    Either way. Well probably be incinerated thanks to the simp in the White House.
    Stolen elections have more consequences then those that are just lost fairly. The thieves have to go quickly before their intentions are noticed.

  9. Like I’ve said elsewhere, I keep 2 55gal. steel drums full and have a mishmash of steel and plastic 5 gal. cans. One steel can of which I picked up off the highway. Presumably, by some logger who didn’t have it secured properly in his flatbed. It’s got a few dings but no leaks.

  10. Filled mine the other day….. but getting a bit nervous with all of this going on.

  11. From High School in the ’70s I had USGI Cans (vietnam Dates) on my Jeep. I continued to accumulate them, but after 15-20 Years, they were getting Rusted, Dented, and Leaky. Changed over to Scepter Cans when they started ‘Leaking Out’ of the .Mil to Surplus Stores. Then about 8 Years ago, I bought 10, direct from the Manufacturer; now I have 20 in Total, and keep them Full. Only (minor) problem with them is the Gaskets eventually Harden and don’t Seal well. Good Ones keep the Fuel in while the Can lays on its Side.

    Another Inexpensive way to store Fuel is to go to Junkyards and look for those Aluminum, 100-Gallon Tanks from Big Trucks. Buy the Brackets off the Frame of the Truck, and you have a Rack to hold it. Just be careful if you Fill one with Gasoline instead of Diesel, as the Expansion Space above the Filler Neck may not be enough for Gas.

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