Glowie

I mentioned a few posts back that I have a glow-in-the-dark (which I am just gonna simplify to ‘glowie’) tray that I keep my bedside gun on so I can find it in the dark. It’s a fairly simple thing…you have the lights on in the bedroom and when you turn off the light to go to bed, the glowie tray has absorbed enough light to glow gently through the night. As you know, most glowie stuff loses its brightness as the night wears on…thats fine because as the night goes on your night vision becomes better. As a result, a faintly glowing object is plenty bright to your just-woke-up-at-3am eyes. TPIWWP, so:

I got mine from the always interesting CountyComm website. I’ve been quite tickled with it and find it to be an excellent way to keep my important bump-in-the-night stuff in one place where I can find it easily.

Nice jugs

Remember kids: guns are the sexy part of survivalism. There’s still a lot of other stuff involved that isnt nearly as fun or sexy. Case in point:


One

One of Canada’s few leading exports that isn’t toxic… (Canaduh is North America’s leading exporter of asbestos, acid rain, and Biebers.) The Scepter cans have a decent reputation and for water storage I rather like them. I don’t like them for fuel storage but then again I am not a fan of any plastic fuel container. When it comes to fuel, it’s Wavian/Valpro or nothing.

Anyway, I was thinking that it was time to replace my ancient surplus British water cans that I bought about 15 years ago. Or, at least retire them to secondary status. The thing I like about these Scepter cans is the enormous mouth on them. It’s large enough that  I can fit the end of a stirrup pump in there and have five-gallons of water for firefighting anywhere I can haul this on an ALICE frame. And, of course, the large  mouth makes it easier to get in there and clean.

I’ll rinse these out with hot water and dish detergent, and then it’s a fillup of clean water and baking soda to eliminate that annoying plastic smell. Then it’s time to fill them, hang them from the rafters with some newsprint on the floor below them, and check on them the next day for leaks. (You do always check your liquid containers for leaks before you commit to using them, don’t you?)

These cans aren’t cheap. I can get cheaper ones from Winco that will probably do just as good a job sitting on a shelf in my basement. But the apocalypse doesn’t always look like a simple trip to my safe, secure, well-lit, temperate basement. Sometimes it looks like heaving 40# cans of water into the back of a truck and bouncing them down a fire road as the bang up and jostle with other gear. Thats what I’m paying the extra for…survivability. Its a virtual certainty these will sit on the shelf in the basement until such time as I need them and their contents….and any reasonably well made plastic water container will work for that. But for that (waitforit) dark and stormy night at 3am where we’re tossing ammo, water, fuel, packs, and food in the back of a truck with the goal of getting outta here now now now….well, thats where the extra money is going.

New holster

My day-to-day carry guns are twofold. When I’m at work, and have to not be obviously armed, I carry a Smith 642 snubbie in an ankle holster under my khakis. Better than  nothing.

When I can wear whatever i want, I usually carry a Glock 17. If I’m running errands, shopping, at the post office, visiting friends, etc, etc, I am going to be, most likely, toting the G17. My holster of choice is a DeSantis that I picked up brand new many years back and have given a tremendous amount of ‘character’ (read:wear and tear). Its a holster that says “I’ve seen things, man.” Its pretty scuffed and battered. But it works fine.

The problem is, about fifty percent of the time it is dark. And while my G17 has a nice set of night sights on it, when lighting is a bit dim its nice to have a weapon-mounted light. However, carrying a pistol with a weapon mounted light is always a bit annoying because you have to get a holster specifically made to accommodate such a protuberance. But, as the world increasingly gets weird, I am taking my personal safety more seriously than before. So…time to get a holster that will accommodate a light.

I like leather, and my two main go-to guys for gunleather are Galco and DeSantis. Finding a holster/light combo compatible holster is dizzying. You have, generally, two sizes of Glock frame – the 9/40 and 10/45. (Discounting the smaller Glocks.) For weapon-mounted lights you’ve got at least…at least…a dozen variations. So, in theory, thats at least 24 possible combinations that may require a unique holster to fit them. But, where there is a will, there is a way.And, like all new leather holsters, it needs a little elbow grease here and there to loosen it up a little. But it seems like a decent enough product.

More importantly, it adds a bit of advantage in my favor, I believe, by giving me the option of having a way to illuminate a target. And, of course, i can also simply not use the light if I don’t feel the need…but at least its there to give me an option I might not otherwise have.

I know that there is a contingent of people who feel that weapon lights are ridiculous because all they do is telegraph your location to the lurking bad guy. I can see the argument, but I can also see arguments in the other direction. As I said, at least this way I have the option as I deem the situation warrants.

The holster, by the way, is a DeSantis “The Tac-Lite” Belt Holster For Glock 9/40 With Streamlight Right Hand Leather Tan 117TAW8Z0 [FC-792695319375]

One more thing to cross off my list….

Night sights

As pretty much everyone has noticed, it’s dark at least 50% of the time.

One of the nice things about the Ruger GP-100 series of pistols is an easiliy swappable front sight. In fact Ruger sells different colored inserts inserts of color so you can find pretty much whatever you want. Unfortuantely, a self-luminating (self-luminous?) front sight was not one of them. Not to fear, the free market abhors a vacuum. I went with the Meprolights since, to be honest, there’s not a huge amount of choices when it comes to revolver night sights, unlike, say, Glocks where everyone makes them.

The rear sight was an easy install, the front sight took a little time with a stone to remove a bit of excess material from the sight.

The finished product, of course, needs to go the range and be sighted in with my usual load of  Unique under a 158 gr. JHP.

I have met people who have said that night sights are pointless…if you can’t see your sights, then its dark enough you can see your target. I want to call this a rather stupid argument but I’m a bit more diplomatic than that so I’ll just call it ‘shortsighted’.

These arguments discount the possibility of scenarios where, for example, you may be standing in a darkened area but your target is in a lit area. Or the light is dim/fading and theres enough light to see a target but not quite enough light to rapidly acquire your sights.

But here’s the most important reason for me: because I believe they have a utility to me.

Crom forfend, but if I am ever in a situation where gunplay means the difference in terms of my immediate and long-term safety, I’m going to want every advantage possible. Night sights are an advantage.

I put night sights on all my Glocks, and whenever possible I add a tactical light as well.  I am surprised that night sights on revolvers are such a seemingly rare commodity these days. I understand that it’s kind of a pain in the butt to make a Model 60 with an interchangeable front sight blade and a dovetail for what would normally be a fixed frame, but, cmon, a gun designed for self-defense should recognize that often those moments take place in less-than-ideal lighting conditions. Ruger, at least, recognizes this and offers a version of their excellent SP101 snubby with front and rear dovetail sights.

I’m pretty sure someone in comments is going to say something about how night sights give your position away to anyone with NOD/NVD’s and therefore you’re not being tactical by having them on your gun, etc, etc. For that, I refer you to the paragraph three above this one.

 

Notes

Sadly, even in what should be a tightly knit community like ours, there are still divisions. There’s one side that thinks that there is nothing wrong with spending big bucks on purpose-built or purpose-designed items versus those who believe that the cheapest alternative is ‘just as good’ and the other side is a buncha ‘yuppie survivalists’. A good example would be water containers. One person will say that anyone who uses anything other than recycled 2-liter pop bottles is not a ‘working man’ and is a fool who is throwing their money away, whereas the the other side will say that anyone who compromises on quality/engineering in order to save a few bucks is cutting their own throat with false economies. Both sides can get pretty vocal and, honestly, both sides kind of annoy me. It’s like two people standing on the deck of the Titanic arguing about rearranging deck chairs while the ship lists.

There won’t be any award given out for people who made it through the apocalypse using the cheapest gear or spending the least resources. If you can afford an advantage, take it. If you can’t, do what you can.

Which brings us to todays soon-to-be-beaten-to-a-lingering-death topic……….

Two things I keep in my gear: writing paper and writing utensils. Why? Because when things go bad, either on a personal small-level SHTF moment or the big epic one, you’re going to need to make notes…of gate combinations, mile markers, GPS coordinates, radio freqs, coded notes for meetup points, phone numbers, addresses, rendezvous times, and a zillion other things that are too important to commit to your already overburdened memory.

My line of reasoning is that in a crisis, if something is worth writing down its worth staying legible and intact until it is no longer needed. Now, I could just grab a ninety-nine cent pocket notebook, a plastic bag, and a ballpoint pen, and throw them in my bag. Or, I could spend the money and buy the paper that lets you write on it even when wet, the pen that lets you write upside down and with ink that won’t smear, and package it all in a handy cordura case that holds the paper and writing instruments together until such time as they’re needed. When that dark and stormy night comes and you need to leave a note tacked to your door telling your separated loved ones where to find you, the last thing you want it for that note to have become a spongy, pulpy mess with unreadable, streaked, and smeared ink.

Look, you do you. But I don’t mind spending money on the purpose-built, purpose-designed materials (or materiels) that fit my needs. Which leads me to these:

What youre looking at is a bunch of ‘Rite In The Rain’ products. These are the guys who are most noted (get it?) for their paper that…well…lets you write in the rain. But paper is only half the equation, the other half is something that will let you write in those circumstances. Remember thos Fisher ‘Space Pens’? Really, all they are are pens that use a pressurized ink cartridge. The RITR guys sell those too. Since I’m a suspenders-and-a-belt kinda guy I include a pen, pencil, Sharpie, and maybe an extra pen or two. Here’s what I’ve found that works for me.

I use the 3×5 notepads. I find them to be the best combination of utility and compactness. Additionally, 3×5 seems to be the most common size for accessories like covers and cases for the pad. RITR sells them, sometimes as a package, but other companies make similar products. I like one-stop-shopping whenever possible, so I just get it all from RITR. I used the grid paper rather than the usual lined paper because…well..its seems more useful if I have to draw a map or other graphic representation of something.

For actual writing instruments, it’s pretty much a no-brainer – go with a pen (or two) that use a pressurized cartridge containing a good waterproof ink. Again, I just get the RITR ones but there are some ‘tactical pens’ out there that also used pressurized cartridges. Might wanna get a spare cartridge or two as well.

In my line of work, we use a lot of mechanical pencils and I’ve come to eschew regular yellow No.2 pencils for any serious use. You can go down a major rabbit hole when it comes to mechanical pencils, leads, etc. For instance, I prefer a .5 lead, and I have a lovely .2 Japanese-made model, but in a tough world I want something less delicate. RITR has a 1.3mm that is really nice. It gives a thick easy to read line with a lead that is thick enough to not break easily. And the pencils themselves are pretty slick too. For scrawling a note to leave on a windshield, on the side of a box of ammo, or on the doorjamb of a house..I really like these. (And the three-pack comes in Black, OD, and FDE…nice.)

An interesting take on the pressurized space pen are these little things from Pokka. Their claim to fame is that they are two-piece compact pocket pens. One half acts as a sheath for the other half, take it apart and click them together to get a full size writing instrument. Handy for keeping a pen in your pants pocket without stabbing yourself in the thigh or painting your clothes with ink. Drawback is that the ink cartridge is necessarily half the capacity. But when you want a compact package to save space but still need the performance, its a good compromise. Other drawback is that it appears they are disposable, without replacement cartridges available. Assess for your needs accordingly.

And, of course, a Sharpie is never a bad idea to keep on hand.

As you think about it, there’s probably a couple additional things to keep handy in that same vein. The one that springs to mind first, for me, is a big chunk of sidewalk chalk and an equally as big crayon. I haven’t seen anything a crayon won’t write on.

Tucked away into a cordura pouch to keep everything collected and protected, it takes up about as much space as a cellphone. Nine times out of ten, I just use them for taking notes at gun shows. However, I also use this stuff for leaving notes on my truck when I go hunting in case something goes wrong, jotting down GPS coords in the field, and that sort of thing.

Can you achieve the same results with a ziploc baggie, a dollar notepad, and a cheap Bic? Yeah, probably. But I could also probably get the same results in New Orleans after Katrina using a Mosin Nagant and a HiPoint…but I’d probably rather have every advantage, real or imagined, on my side that is afforded by the stuff mentioned here.

As I said, it’s a subjective thing…what we determine is or is not worth dropping our hard-earned coin on. For me, since I don’t drink, smoke, or have expensive non-survivalist-related hobbies, I can spend a little money on stuff that someone else might think is an extravagant or unnecessary purchase. To each their own.

HSG mag pouches

A while back I decided I wanted a belt to keep a ‘ready’ amount of gear on. The sort of thing that you’d grab to go investigate something rousing the dogs in the yard or that sort of thing. Regardless, I wanted something where I could just wrap a belt around my waist and have the basics.

I wound up purchasing the Viking Tactical Skirmish Belt.  In conjunction with my Safariland holster its a very nice combination. But..I need a couple mag pouches for the AR and G17 to add to the belt. (I’ll also be adding one these .) So what pouches? Well, I wanted something without the usual over-the-top retention bungees. So I looked around and found what seemed like a good choice. Wound up with the High Speed Gear Tacos .

I rather like these. The MOLLE attachments are easy to use, the retention tension is adjustable, and there’s a good bit of rigidity to the pouch but the magazines pull free easily. I’ll need to take this setup to the range this weekend and play with it a bit, but I’m rather impressed with the HSG product. Made in the USA, which puts it a notch of Blackhawk and a host of other pouch makers.

I’m not looking for a Batman-belt of every possible survivalist advantage. I just need something with a gun/holster, some extra mags, a first aid kit with TQ, and maybe a flashlight and multitool. Thats it. If I need six AR mags, three Glock mags, a huge sheath knife, radio, medkit, and a dump pouch…well…thats a whole different bunch of kit. I just want a fairly straightforward rig for when you want something a bit more robust because the times have gotten a bit more interesting than usual.

But..this is about the pouches. I’ll be playing with them at the range shortly, but so far they look like theyre exactly what I’m looking for in this particular usage.

Kerosene stove

I live in a house that is plumbed for natural gas. I use it for heat, cooking, and clothes drying. Broadly speaking, when the power goes out, I still have natural gas available for my use. However, this will not be the case in every circumstance. A power outage caused by a squirrel humping a transformer three blocks down the street will not affect natural gas delivery to my house… a large natural disaster or distrubance, on the other hand, may impact delivery. (Could be anything…union goes on strike, pipeline damage, etc, etc.)

So, to me, it makes sense to have another way to cook. And, really, cooking is a bit of a luxury in a crisis…I can live a long time eating unheated food out of its can. But, being able to create a big pot of steaming hot water…that has a tremendous value.

For my cooking needs I have a couple small camping stoves. One, a Coleman Peak 1 stove, will run on white gas or on kerosene. The other stove, a Primus multifuel, will run on literally any hydrocarbon I can find. But those are small stoves that don’t lend themselves to real cooking. Great for backpacking, though. I need to pick up a small two burner propane stove and that’s on the list as soon as I do some research. But…one thing I’ve wanted for a while is a kerosene stove. I have kerosene lanterns, kerosene heaters, and a rather healthy amount of kerosene on hand. Its the hottest burning of the liquid fuels, stores well, and is safer than gasoline. I can, and have, cooked on top of my kerosene heater but it doesn have nearly the heat control I’d like.  So, whats the options look like for kerosene stoves?

Well, there’s a buncha sheet metal stamped kero stoves that are out of China and India. They all look a bit flimsy and their sharp edges of stamped steel could give you tetanus just by staring at them too long. But I did a bit of research and came up with this:

Seems pretty solid. Not made in China or India, which is nice. If you get one of these, you really need to follow the one big cardinal rule of any kerosene appliance: when you fill it for the first time, or you are using a new wick, give the wick plenty of time to soak up fuel before you light it. Seriously. Fill it with fuel and then go forget about it for at least several hours. Otherwise trying to light it will only result in the wick burning rather than the fuel. Here endeth the lesson.

Like most kerosene appliances, there is some smell when you start it up and when you shut it down. I’d normally say you would want to do those procedures outside but I think this is a product that you really should be using in a wildly well ventilated space…like maybe a garage with the door up.

It takes a bit of fiddling and adjusting to get things just the way they should. What youre looking for is for a blue gas-like flame. Not the cheery yellow of a kerosene heater. It takes a little learning curve to figure out just how much or how little wick to give it, etc, but once youve got it dialed in the results are pretty good.

I was able to put a covered dutch oven with one liter of cold water on this and it had it at a rolling boil in seventeen minutes with an ambient outside temperature of 37 degrees. I’d imagine that building a screen or shield around it to keep the cold away would help quite a bit.

I see this as a choice for tailgating, car camping, picnic tables, and other outdoor venues where you want a long-burning heat source to cook with. In a crisis, I’d see no trouble sitting in my yard boiling up water for freeze drieds or frying something. I suppose that i a well ventilated indoor space you might be able to use it, but I’m going to have enough problems going on around me at that point to want to add another one like CO poisoning.

I got mine offa Amazon for about $140 and I think that was about the right price for that. The build quality seems better than what I’ve seen in the China/India versions, and it appears well made although realistically it isn’t a terribly complicated device. As always, while you’ve got your wallet out go pick up a spare wick because.

For me, since I’m a bit heavy on kerosene, this was a good choice for an alternative cooking method. A small propane stove would probably be more efficient and easier to work with, but I have a  lot of kerosene so for me this makes sense. I’m still going to get a small two-burner propane stove that runs on the 1# bottles, and when I do I will report back on it. In the meantime though…I rather like the cheery heat and warmth of kerosene.

Sig Romeo4T Pro followup

Last year I purchased a Sig Romeo4T Pro as my entry into the world of dot sights. I was pretty taken with it at the time and I thought I’d revisit it since some time has now gone by.

Still think it’s great. I havent turned it off since I got it. It sits on top of my MP5A2 clone and its still functioning on the original battery. The ‘shake awake’ feature has performed as advertised – when I put the gun in the rack, the sight turns itself off after a couple minutes. When I pick it up the scope exits its sleep mode and is on. What this means is, I don’t ever need to turn the thing on or off. Just leave it on and when I put it down it’ll go to sleep and save battery life, and when I pick it up it immediately comes back on ready to use…no switches to fumble with. The 9mm in a carbine like this isn’t exactly a long-range cartridge so the lack of magnification isn’t, in my opinion, an issue for this particular type of gun and it’s particular anticipated use.However…I can ring the plates at 100 yards with it, so there’s that.

I’ve shot it a bunch and am still very pleased with it. So much so, in fact, that I’m gonna be picking up another one or two for some other longarms.

However, I decided to bump up a notch and get a Romeo8T. I’m gonna mount that on my JAKL and see how I like it.

So far, I’ve been pretty pleased with the SIG dots. And by the way, Palmetto has announced they are working on a .308 JAKL and I am very excited at the prospect.

The Romeo4T, by the way, is apparently what Obi Wan Nairobi used at his shopping mall bullet party. Who knew?

Quest for fire III: Flare for the dramatic

Did you happen to read the Jack London story I linked to in my earlier post? Its rather short but it is absolutely worth the read. I have to hand it to London, he really wrote a very good story in that it conveys the increasing terror and horror of the main character as he realizes he’s going to have some frost nip, to losing a few toes, to losing his hands, feet, and part of his face, to finally realizing he’s going to die. What’s marvelously well done is that at each realization, the man recognizes the damage hes going to take but plays it down and accepts it…the notion that he’s actually in danger of losing his life doesn’t come to the end. Normalcy bias.

Anyway, in the story his fingers and hands are starting to freeze and he can’t manipulate his fingers into holding or lighting his matches. So he manages to hold one in his teeth, light it, and ignite the entire batch of matches in his frozen hands. Hardcore stuff.

Like I said, I carry a lighter, I carry lifeboat matches, and I even carry those cute striker devices. But if my hands are starting to freeze, and I’ve got maybe a minute until my fingers are frozen meat-n-bone popsicles, then I need a fire and I need it right now. Thats when I stop screwing around and go for one of these two devices:

Orion Safety – Fire Pit Pro – Fire Starter for Campfires, Bonfires & Fire Pits – Ignites Damp Wood & Burns up to 7 Minutes – Eco-Friendly – Self-Contained, Waterproof & Windproof Ignition

These babies are basically a sawed off road flare. In fact, a road flare, if you have room for it, is my first choice…theyre cheap and pretty easy to find. The Orion wind up being about $8 each in the 12-pack which is the economical way to go. I mean, you’ve got more than one pack and hideyhole that needs these things, right? Might as well get the dozen.

But, there is still a degree of manual manipulation required to light them. Not much more manipulation than striking a match, but when your hands are swinging from the ends of your arms like meat clubs, you need something with less dexterity requirements. For that last resort option, I love the marine hand flares.

Simply yank the string with your teeth and let ‘er rip. I buy these at gun shows for about $5 each and I always carry two in my bag. Always. They’re available on GunBroker apparently. The ones I get are expired from marine survival kits and lifeboats. As long as theyre in good condition, they work fine. I’ve used ones that expired well over a decade ago and they work perfectly…they have to, they were designed for some serious conditions.

While I’m coming to the end of my thoughts on this subject, I wonder if anyone took away what the real message of that Jack London story was. The message wasn’t that you should have a way to start a fire, or that you shouldnt build your fire under a tree weighed down with snow, or that you should keep your feet dry. No, no, no. The moral of that story was don’t ignore the warnings given to you by more experienced people. Not only should the man in the story have never gone out alone, he should not have gone out at all. He was warned by the old timer that the weather was far too cold, and the danger and risk far too great, to be out there. But the man didn’t listen, and as he came to realize the old man had been right, it was too late. The first rule of surviving any disaster is…what, guys? I’ve told you this before. Anyone? Bueller? Bueller? No? The first rule of surviving any disaster is: don’t be there.

If it’s -75 degrees out, don’t undertake to walk several miles in the snow to a cabin that will still be there in a few days when the temperature is warmer.

But, as I’ve said, even in Montana it can be a lovely July day that quickly becomes a hypothermic episode in the blink of an eye. So, forget what Smokey Bear says and always have at least several ways in your pocket to burn down the forest.

Lightsticks over the doorway II

A fairly common survivalist practice – setting a lightstick on top of the doorway to a room so its always there if you need it when the power goes out. Nothing special there. But, like all things on a long enough timeline, those lightsticks have an expiration date. Based on my personal experience, I usually ignore that expiration date…as long as the lightsticks were in a cool dry place (like the inside of my house) they should be fine. But, lets test that.

Heck, only 19 years past expiration……….

I did a round up of lightsticks and pulled a few out of the pile to try out. They foil packages were dusty, but everything seemed okay on the inside.

No leaks. Nothing broken. Vials inside the plastic tubes are fine. All looks good. Other than chemical degradation over almost twenty years, there shuldn’t be any reason these shouldn’t work.  But, I didnt come all this way for theory. Lets crack these in half and see what does (or does not) happen:

As I 99.99% expected – they work fine. I suppose I should revisit them in a few hours and see how much life they have left in them but for my uses these are strictly short-term illumination devices. I use them to find my way to a real flashlight or lamp, or theyre for marking something.

I ordered some newer ones of Amazon a few days ago and they got here today, so I’ll be replacing these (much) older one. But its nice to know that after sitting in situ for almost two decades they work just fine. YMMV, of course, but I’m confident that these things will last far beyond their prescribed expiration.

I also keep a couple of these in my larger first aid kits, my generator supply box, and anywhere I think I might some lighting in an emergency when nothing else is available. These things are never a first choice, but for a source of light that is explosion-proof, water-proof, wind-proof, and will work when batteries have self depleted ten years ago.good choice. Cheap insurance for about a buck and a half each.

ETA: keep in mind, not all lightsticks are made by the same people. If you buy some Made In China lightsticks versus, say, the actual  Cyalume product, you may get different results.