Glock upgrades

You know how when you buy a picture frame it comes with some cheesey picture already in it? That picture is basically just there as a placeholder to show what you’re supposed to put there, using a better and more personal image.

Factory sights on a Glock are pretty much that.

(And, credit where credit is due, that analogy came from Tam.)

Anyway,Glock factory (plastic!) sights do the job, I suppose, but I wanted something a bit more durable and a lot more glowy since this particular G17 was going to replace my very dog-earred Gen2 G19 that I’ve been toting around for the last ten years. Since Tam has shot more Glocks, and used more different sight combinations, than pretty much any primate on the internet I asked for her opinion. She very graciously replied to my email with not only her learned opinion but a good bit of detail explaining that opinion.

My go-to recommendation these days is Trijicon HDs, either in the regular version or the HD XR, which have a slightly thinner front sight.

The advantage to the XR sight is that the narrower front sight (still fat compared to fine target sights) gives wider “light bars” on either side and is therefore a lot faster to pick up when shooting at speed. Also, it doesn’t completely obscure a target like a B-8 bull as close as 15 yards the way most “combat” front sights do. (Pretty much all USPSA guys will run skinny Dawson fibers on game guns these days for speed and precision.)

….

(Interestingly, part of the reason for the trend hugely fat front sights is the limitations imposed by insetting a tritium vial. The new, skinnier front sights like the HD XR and CAP LE are literally as narrow a front sight as Tool Tech can safely load with tritium.)

Who am I to argue? I found a place that had them on sale for $80 delivered and ordered up a set. They arrived today. A few minutes with a front sight tool (highly recommended) and my old factory Glock sight pusher (also rather handy) and sights were in. Now, of course, the gun is virtually useless until I go to the range and make sure things hit where theyre supposed to. I’ll swap out all the springs just to be thorough, sight it in for the usual 115 gr. chow, and call it good.

I’m sure someone may ask “Why the 17 instead of the smaller 19”? I generally find that, given the holsters I use, the difference in size between the two pistols makes virtually no practical difference on concealment. So, I’ll take the bigger grip and slightly longer sight radius. Oh, and these landed today:

So, off to the range later this week.

 

Habit, I guess

I have 60,000 rounds of .22 ammo on hand.
“Oh, check it out… they have 550 bricks of Federal for $24.99”
AND I BUY ANOTHER BRICK!

I don’t want to say that I’m rooting for the apocalypse, but if, like in fiction, we are reduced to using .22 ammo has a form of currency I will be Fort freakin’ Knox.

I’m overreacting for humourous effect…. I pick up another brick here and there because when I go shooting it seems I always dump a couple hundred rounds of .22. And as a result I like to have my ‘shooting ammo’ stash and my ‘preparedness’ stash. The infrequent purchase of a brick or two every few months is more towards the ‘shooting ammo’ stash.

But….

It IS a lot of ammo sitting there in a pile when you look at it.

Frozen water, or as your people call it, ice

One of the ironies about winter is that when you are surrounded by snow and ice it doesn’t necessarily mean that you’re water issues are over.

Once in a while someone asks me about how I keep water in a vehicle emergency kit in the winter. The answer is I keep it he same way i keep it in the summer – small pouches or small plastic bottles. But don’t they freeze? Yes.

See, the problem isn’t really about the water freezing. The problem is about how you thaw the water. The solution, of course, is pretty freakin’ obvious – the smaller the quantity of ice, the faster it will thaw.

Imagine a gallon of ice as a frozen block. Now imagine 128 1-ounce ice cubes lined up in a row. Which one will thaw completely faster? The ice cubes, of course.

There’s two ways I keep water in the vehicle – I use either the small 4 oz. ‘lifeboat ration’ water pouches or the small hand grenade sized plastic water bottles. Both are small enough you can shove them in a pocket or under your butt and thaw them out. The pouches are the easiest to thaw..they are about the size and thickness of a Pop Tart and you can thaw them in just a few minutes by sitting on them. Yes, it takes a lot of them to add up to a couple gallons of water (which you should always have in your vehicle). So what? Whether its 2 1-gallon jugs or 64 4-oz. pouches its still the same amount of water…the only difference is that it wont take two days for the pouches to thaw.

The pouches freeze quite well and I’ve never had one fail from being frozen, but, of course, whenthey are frozen try no to bang them around. The plastic water bottles have also never given me any problems and I’ve had them go through several freeze/thaw cycles. Fact is, most bottled water is packaged in bottles that are so darn tough you can pretty much ignore them. Roll a couple under the seats of your car and forget about ’em.

Melt snow and ice when you’re by the side of the road? Well, yeah, you can do that but you would be amazed at how much snow it takes to make an appreciable amount of water. I remember reading somewhere that 1″ of rain is the same amount of water as 10″ of snow.

What this means is that if you think you’re going to cut the top off an empty beer can with your pocket knife, scoop up a can full of snow, and melt it over your Zippo to drink..well..you need to do that about a dozen times to get one can full of water. Youre better off storing the stuff in your vehicle. Sure, you can do it as a last resort, but don’t you have better things to do with your heat sources?

So, for those who wonder how do you keep water in your vehicle in the winter without it freezing, the answer is: you don’t. You let it freeze, but you take steps to make sure its easy to thaw. I suppose if youre creative you could have a small ice chest in your vehicle to keep the water in and if you get stuck throw some chemical handwarmers in there to keep the water from refreezing once you thaw it.

Me, I go with the pouches….light, easy to transport, fit in my pockets, and they thaw fast.

The dream is always the same

Man, I hate these end-of-the-world dreams. They’re never as entertaining as you would think, and they can often be pretty terrifying.

First dream was that there was some sort of weird natural event occurring..sheets and sheets of lightning were coming down and just hitting everything. I remember thinking that retreating to my house would make no difference since houses were being blown apart left and right by lightning, and I wished I’d built a nice, simple, underground concrete box big enough to hold myself and a some supplies. At that point I woke up, groaned out loud because I knew I was in for a night of bad dreams, and just resigned myself to my fate.

Second dream was a bit more average… I can’t recall the gist of it, but I was huddled at the bottom of a stairwell in some dingy alleyway, hiding under some newspaper and cardboard, hoping to remain undiscovered by Bad Guys. Of course, such is not to be. I hear voices getting closer and closer, and a voice saying they should look over in my direction. Again, wake up.

What can you do but try not to eat spicy food before bed?
—————————-

On the other hand, you can always try and tilt the odds in your favor with more magazines.

 

The cold season

Winter seems to have decided to stick around for a while. Its been genuinely cold the last few days and the evenings have been pretty darn nippy. Its times like these I like to wargame in my head what I would do if the power (and heat) went out. See, if you lose power in the summer, it’s an inconvenience, but ny and large it won’t kill you. Oh, you’ll sweat at night without air conditioning, and you’ll have to toss out your freezer, but otherwise it’s just not a big deal. Winter, on the other hand, will mess you up, homie.

The biggest worry I have isn’t freezing to death. A buncha food and a good stack of blankets will prevent that. My concern is damage to my humble abode. Biggest danger is the pipes freezing and bursting. The obvious solution would be to turn off the main supply, open the basement tap, open the tap at the high point of the house, and let everything drain. Some folks pour antifreeze or other non-freeze liquids down the drains to keep the residual liquids in the traps from freezing.

Me, I’m more inclined to just keep the house at a balmy 50-degrees or so. Not too hard with a couple kerosene heaters. Craigslist is a boon for finding $20 new-in-box kerosene heaters in the summer. Between a couple heaters, all the kerosene I’ve stored, and isolating various parts of the house, I think I could keep things going for a few weeks. Any longer than that and there are bigger problems going on than just frozen pipes.

Not sure how Pex responds to getting frozen. It seems like it might be more resilient to the problem than traditional pipes would be. Certainly it has a bunch of other tings going for it, I wonder if a heightened resistance to freeze-induced bursting is one of them.

Anyway, its probably ten degrees out right now and I’m quite pleased to be sitting in my warm house. But, I know nothing lasts forever and that something you like can change like that *snaps fingers*…so, kerosene….lots of it.

Next house, though….its gonna be wood heat, oil heat, propane heat….cover all the bases.

Bargain background blathering

Last of the AR mags went out in todays post. Everyone should have theirs within a few days.

In case anyone is curious, what’s the criteria for these sorts of infrequent offers I put out there? Pretty simple – it has to be an item that I need for myself, that can be discounted if bought in a large enough quantity, small enough to ship Priority Flat Rate, and inexpensive enough that I can be okay with getting stuck with keeping it all for myself.

You’d be surprised how many vendors change their tune about their pricing when you ask about buying 500 magazines rather than 50 magazines. But…to get that sort of discount, I need to find a buncha folks who are willing to take a buncha mags off my hands to make the discount happen. Thats where you folks come in.

Remember the 10/22 deal last year? I moved a couple thousand magazines in that episode. When you dial up the guys at Mags-R-Us and ask if they’d do a little better on a thousand magazines…well…numbers start shifting. As a result, I get to buy mags for myself at a good price and pass the savings on to you, as they say.

The drawbacks? Well, its a lot of work. There are always people who make it difficult. They say they want thirty mags and then -poof- they never pony up. Or they order mags and think Im going to ship them overseas. Or they want to pay me when their next unemployment/disability/VA check shows up. Or they just send cash in the mail without telling me (which is fine, but I need to know its on the way so I know to set some mags back…which carries back to Problem Person Number One in this list). And then pack stuff up, labels printed, hauling dozens of boxes to the PO, etc, etc. Its a bit of work.

But, so far, it’s been somewhat worthwhile. I usually wind up with a few extras for my own stash at a good price, and you guys wind up getting what I hope is a good deal. Everyone wins…which is the best situation you can get in a business transaction.

Future bargain buys? If I can get a good deal on Glock 9mm mags or Mini-14 mags, that might come to pass. Before you start jabbering in comments with “Hey, if you can get a deal on .45 Smith and Wesson M&P mags…..” No. It doesn’t work like that. Its stuff that I need for myself, and that Im okay with keeping if it doesn’t sell. If I dont have a Smith, Steyr, or Valmet, then the odds are pretty good Im not going to be looking to fabricate some Smith, Steyr, or Valmet deals. Makes sense, right?

As I said, at the moment the only good deals I’d be interested in putting together (gunwise) are ones that fit my needs. Other stuff turns up once in a rare while…micro Pelican cases, Esbit stoves, etc, etc. But so far the magazines get the best response and thus get the best discount.

So thats how it works, guys. It’s all self-interest. By selling you guys stuff at a good price, I get a quantity discount that lets me fill my own stockpiles. Everyone wins.

 

Battery storage stuff

So the general consensus, it seems, is that leaving non-lithium batteries in a device for any appreciable length of time is a recipe for trouble. As I mentioned earlier, on the devices that I do leave batteries in, I’m instituting a periodic inspection schedule to make sure things don’t spiral out of control.

But, really, the solution is to not have batteries in the device until such time as that device is needed. Makes sense, right? The problem is that anytime you have two items that need to be combined together to be effective, and you keep those two items separate from each other, you introduce a potential point of failure. The very easy example is keeping a loaded magazine separate from the gun.

So, to my way of thinking, the solution is to keep the batteries separate from the device to avoid damage, but near enough to the device as to be available for immediate use. So, with that in mind….

What we have here are, essentially, shotgun-shell holders for batteries. Here’s the link to the manufacturers information, and, of course, I just snagged ’em offa Amazon:

The shotgun shell analogy is pretty accurate. There are two tabs, such as youd fend at the end of a magazine tube, that hold the batteries in place. They’re quite secure. The more astute of you will notice that this thing doesn’t provide any environmental protection…that is true. But what it does do is give you a secure storage for batteries that can be lanyarded to your device of choice.

You could argue, I suppose, that you simply keep the lantern and the batteries in the same box in storage and that obviates the need for this sort of thing. True, but preparedness is about removing or mitigating as many potential problem points as possible. For me, having the batteries lanyarded to the device gives me the virtually the same benefit of the batteries being left in the deivce but without the attendant risk.

No doubt the poverty-preppers will say that the same effect could be achieved with a small plastic bottle scrounged from the kitchen garbage and a little duct tape. May be. But my career goals have hit the point where I can insulate myself from future risk without resorting to using garbage. When its oh-dark-thirty and the power goes out in a blizzard, I don’t mind having spent ten bucks for the security of having the batteries where I need them when I need them. :::shrug::: Your choice.

If you really wanna go full Burt Gummer, the guys over at County Comm have battery safes that will do the PERFECT job but be prepared to pay a bit more than what you might feel comfortable with. I actually use the County Comm ones to keep two lithium AA-batts in my Bag O’ Tricks.

Anyway, thats the direction I’ve decided to go in in regards to not keeping batteries in devices while still keeping the batteries close at hand. YMMV, but to me it seems a good solution.